Getting There & First Impressions
Landing in Kigali International Airport felt chaotic at first. Grabbed my backpack and immediately started hunting for transport to Rwamagana town. Taxi guys swarmed me like bees shouting “Muzungu! Good price!” but my rusty Kinyarwanda saved me – just smiled and said “Oya, murakoze.” Knew I had better options.
Bus Adventures
Hopped on a matatu heading east after asking three locals where to catch it. Paid 1,500 RWF (about $1.20) for the plastic bench seat. Wild ride – chickens clucking under seats, reggae blasting, conductor hanging off the door shouting stops. Took 2 hours bouncing on potholes but we made it. Pro tip: Bring cash in small bills and squeeze in early before seats fill.
Tried Rwanda Federation of Taxi Motorcycles next. Found their guys in bright green vests near the market. Negotiated 1,000 RWF for 15-minute ride to Gishari hot springs. Driver handed me a helmet that smelled like sweat but held tight as we zoomed through tea plantations. Felt safer than expected.
Local Hacks Learned
- Never board matatus after dusk – roads get pitch black and drivers turn reckless
- Distances lie – “10 minutes away” means 40 minutes in Rwandan time
- Wave down boda-bodas (motorcycle taxis) by clapping twice – saves your throat from yelling
Final Wisdom
Thought bike rentals were smart till I tried pedaling uphill in 30°C heat. Walked that rusty bike more than rode it. Best move? Making friends with Clementine at my guesthouse who introduced her moto guy. Reliable driver with decent English became my transport lifeline for 5,000 RWF/day. Moral? Forget apps and timetables – find your local fixer. Still aching from that bike ride though.